Sunday
May 22
page 79

2005 BALKANS TOUR

Ben Oostdam

by train from
Bar to Beograd, SERBIA

text
In the mean time, we passed through 254 tunnels totalling 21,226.5 m in length [or some 60% of the total distance(?)] and crossed 234 bridges when we got to them. I saw the spectacular Tara River Canyon (as much as 1,300 m. deep) and the highest railroad bridge in the World, Mala Rijeka Viaduct almost 200 m above the riverbed, completed in 1976 when "it" was still Yugoslavia here. I was very impressed both by the spectacular (limestone) mountain scenery (including Durmitor National Park) and by "the works" completed by PLANUS.
At 15:15 we arrived at Kolasin where I saw several taxis and chatted with the conductor, Marko Dalvocic. Then followed snow covered tops and deep valleys and, of course, more tunnels, including the longest, Zlatibor, (6,169.3m) There also was a lake and a hydro dam, some towns and more interesting scenery as shown on the photographs on pages 76 and 77.
It became too dark to take photographs and we finally reached Vreoce, where we got off and boarded a bus. My atomic waste friend and I had to stand while he pointed out places close to this home. I had to dissuade him from taking me all the way to the railroad station - as had been his intention, and we were both relieved when he got off with his briefcase. I stayed on with my two packs, from hereon nicely seated on a bench and watching the profusion of lights and feeling some deep potholes. Before long we reached Belgrade, which looked more interesting than I remembered - probably because this time it did not rain. I recognized the railroad stration and almost felt home for a minute.
It was rather quiet in the station and to my delight, an English speaking railroad information lady pointed out the train to Budapest which was about to leave. The conductor told me not to worry about my reservations. I found a cabin with two double bunkbeds, and appropriated a bottom bunk. A few minutes later, a whistle blew and a heavily packed couple joined me: one from Canada, the other from Australia. By that time, I had pulled some blankets over my head and they also went to bed without talking or undressing. The train got underway and for the rest of the night, we only saw passing lights, some bridges and stations. It seemed that every half hour some custom officers and conductors knocked, asked for or returned our passports or tickets and commanded to lock the door (It was the sleepy Aussie in the top-bunk who had to descend and open or close the door)
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