Thursday
May 12
(continued)
page 45

2005 BALKANS TOUR

Ben Oostdam

Kotor
MONTENEGRO
via Debeli Briseg border to
Dubrovnik
CROATIA
At the other side of the Debeli Briseg border, we waited a while for the bus. There was a pleasant restaurant , Venetia, I think, with an exemplary bathroom. I talked a lot with an elderly Dutch couple well equipped and in good shape for this type of travel. The New Zealand couple talked with two young men from Lyon and later on the luxurious bus traveling the entire Croatian coast, we all mingled and shared a bottle of Tepelene, a kind of mineral water which they had fortified with raki.
The coast road was magnificent and the view of Dubrovnik out of this world. But I had scheduled to by-pass it and to pay the town proper hommage on my return trip, next week. So I got off at Dubrovnik together with the kiwis, who stayed there, while the Franch were to go on to Zagreb to catch a bus back to France . . . I walked a few yards to the next stop for a bus to take me to Stikovica (Zaton Veliki). On the bus, I asked a pleasant young woman to call my host on her cell phone. Shortly after we had started an animated conversation, the bus stopped suddenly and another young woman came aboard, walked along the isle and "retrieved" the American guest! This was another Natasha, 30 years old, who took me to their guesthouse and soon to be opened restaurant in a cosy cove-setting.
I met her mother, Mandica, 57 who spoke some German and her father, Boris Njiric, a retired cook. I had two beers and grilled calamari right next to the cobble beach.
I left shortly after a colorful sunset and paid about 10 euros or 72 kuna.
Some other prices on the menu:
fish soup 20k; mussels 35k; grilled squid 45k; beefsteak 85k, beer 10k; kava/caj 5k


BLO fecit 20050916
CONTENTS - next page