KENYA

March 2, 1978


At 05:00, I was too mad about the loud music, so I went downstairs to look for its source. The door to the outside was locked, but some watchman let me out. I walked again through the dark village of Voi, where only a few Indian storekeepers were awake. I found out that the source of the Congolese "band" was a plastered truckdriver who thought he had won the lottery and kept dropping in more and more coins into a juke box! I walked back and went to bed again, this time only bothered by a mosquito. I woke up at 06:30, and found not only that there was no water, but also that my shoes and socks were rather smelly.
Someone bade me a kind "jambo", when I got into the car and drove through the Tsavo National Park gate, which cost me ks 50 for admission and a good chart.

(please click to enlarge
Map of Tsavo National Park)
The scenery improved and I passed some lodges, but few cars. The road was good and well marked. I missed the heaps of elephant dung, but when I got higher up in the mountains, I noted some herds of elephants, first far away, then closer and closer.

This was confirmed by a cantankerous tourist who complained about having had to wait for 20 minutes...


Later, when I thought I saw a geologist, it happened to be one of a group of 3 Dutchmen repairing a bridge. They nicely helped me across and we had a small chat. There was some rather fresh looking lava and I saw hundreds of deer. In the "Rhinoceros Valley," I failed to find any rhinos, but on two roadsigns I saw a lizard and a falcon, respectively. I took picts of them and of the speedbumps and/or piles of elephant dung. Also came across some giraffes, a dumb looking redhead hen and a giant nose bird, some secretary birds and a pool full of flamingoes.



There also were some iguanas, about 50 cm long.
The weather was changeable, but I enjoyed the Park till I got out after 13:00. Here I hit a veritable jackpot, some 5 gas stations, at one of which I tanked up. and bought some chocolats.
I continued on the road to Nairobi, climbing higher and higher, passing several villages, a temple, and a turned over truck loaded with ironware.
There were more glorious wide views of mountains, valleys and plains, then suddenly another half dozen giraffes. I stopped and bought some mangoes, and soon reached the airport. Then I made it through the annoyingly crowded traffic of the capital Nairobi to the Salama Hotel, arriving at 16:00. I first called Rita Whittey, who told me that Alan was in England but invited me for dinner that evening at 20:00. It took her a while to explain to me how to get there. I first took a long shower and shaved, then bought two boxes for ks 2 each, and made arrangements to weigh my tar samples the next morning. I packed the two boxes with a pair of shoes, three shirts, a leather coat, a dishdasha, sheepskin, 2 fungia corals , and all kinds of maps and souvenirs, then weighed them (20kgs in all). "Good riddance!" I said to myself and left at 19:15, taking a Masai shield as symbolic present for Rita. I got to Convent Road without problems, and we had a wonderful evening with drinks, dinner, music and long stories, till it was suddenly 1 in the morning and time for goodbye. I made it past the Ambassador Hotel and its still active army of ks 70 attractions and tumbled in bed for my last night in Kenya (at least, on this tour...).
Kenyan Bird Stamps - Nairobi (from a Nigerian Website!!)
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