KENYA

February 20, 1978


A cool, even cold morning, and atmosphere reminding me of our ryukan in Kyoto.I got up at 09:00 only, shaved in the hallway and turned down the two shower options: cold or ice-cold. I was annoyed again about the girls smoking cigarettes, so I went down alone, wrote my diary and had an egg for breakfast. When they came down and joined me I told them this would be our last day together and that I would drop them of in Naivasha. We left at 09:00, and I first tanked up at 12,560 km for a total of ks 85. I also bought some ks 100 souvenirs: a knockberry, a shield,a double ring hanger, a turtle basket and a neckchain. I took care to avoid shoestores.
We were all three in a bad mood while we descended into the plain crossing the trail of three giraffes, one of which decided to make a run for it, be it in slow motion. I took some photos and then we climbed up again and drove in the direction of Nairobi. We now decided that they would go along to-day, so that instead of delivering them home I would give them ks 100 to take a bus or matata.
Once again we drove past the magnificent escarpment. We bought some pears before turning left towards Limuru which I drove through at full speed ignoring their hint that there was a bank here. I was still mad about the fact that they had put cigarettes onto the hotel account without asking. We left Uplands lying at the right,and went through Hot Springs on the way to South Kinangop, where they wanted to be dropped off. The road got muddier and muddier, especially near an elementary school where dozens of schoolboys in khaki shorts and terra sweaters stood laughing while they encouraged a truck driver to slide and slither forward slowly.

Instead of South Kinangop we went to North which was a giant mudpool with hotels, bars and nightclubs where we had lunch. We admired the murals drawn by Joe Kim, young artist. It was also interesting to see how the girls dealt adroitly with waiters. By the time we reached Yatekomo, we were all very tired.
We drove on into the Aberdare Mountains where it was not so muddy anymore and started to look Scottish or Scandinavian, with pine forests and poplars. This was a marvelous, winding mountain road, and we were surprised to find huge piles of elephant dung. and some bamboo patches. When we reached the top, some 10,500 feet high, there was a gate and a sign that only four wheel drive vehicles were allowed. I was surprised to see that the gate keeper's truck sat there stuck in the mud. Behind us came several landrovers filled with beardy tourists and campers. We were offered a ks 20 small room, but I preferred to drive back down again, enjoying the view and the quiet ride since both girls were fast asleep.
I drove past the entire Nyandarua Range, through Kipipiri and Gilgil - foregoing the last chance to go to Naivasha - and at dusk came oput on a good asphalt road to Thomsom Falls, having somewhere crossed back into the northern hemisphere.
I stopped at Nyahururu -Kenya's highest town - around 19:00, km 15,626 just when the rains started again. All hotels were full till we finally found one in a side street for ks 25.the Nyahuru Tropical Hotel, Bar and Restaurant.We had a dinner mainly consisting of game meet served with good coffee, so we all felt much better and turned in around 21:00 after I wrote up the day's log.
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